Kyema Monday, March 28, 2016 2 comments
Hello from Sunny Washington! (Said no one ever.) Don't let these pictures fool you, I was freezing my butt off.

I'm bringing you something fun and new today, another bohemian beauty design from Mandalynn of Striped Swallow Designs. She recently came out with a girl's version of the Desert Breeze and I snatched it up right away for my nonexistent babies nieces. I absolutely adore the style of this top, it's going to be perfect for "Summer." (If that's a thing that happens here.) 


The Women's Desert Breeze includes several options.

-Flutter sleeves with cutout 
-Straight sleeves with cutout
-Flutter sleeves with cut out and elastic instead of binding
-Gathered waist dress
-Loose swing dress
-Loose swing top

-Fitted top (This will be an add on in the near future. A little birdie told me that it will be *free* to members of the Striped Swallow Designs Sewing Group! So join early and get first access to the add on slim fit top.)


I chose the slim fit with flutter sleeves and binding around the sleeves. Based off of full and upper bust measurements I sewed an XS and it fits like a glove. Full disclosure ... I feel like an angel. 
The construction of the Desert Breeze is ... a breeze. Everything comes together like a dream and it's relatively quick, too.

If you haven't used a Striped Swallow Design pattern before, you're in for a treat. Her patterns are laid out in a super pleasing manor and she thinks of the little things. (like putting the S/A on each page - so if you forget, which you know you probably will, you don't have to flip through 20 pages to find it.) She walks you through each step with detailed photos and at the end, you probably can't believe you finished with such an ace looking product. 
The binding instructions are great, too! Just look at how pretty my binding turned out in the picture above. I impressed myself. ;)
AND! The pattern pieces are layered so I was able to print just my size. #thankyoulawd

*Side note, I used a straight stitch for the binding and it turned out great! If anyone is like me, you might try to decide on stretch or straight stitch... we'll fret no more, straight works fine for this top on the binding.*


I did lengthen the Desert Breeze by 2". There are no lengthen and shorten lines, but it's pretty easy to do yourself. I just found the thinnest point on the front and back and cut and added 2" in between the pieces. If you are around my height 5'6", I would suggest adding a little length unless you are comfortable in shorter tops. Additionally, I haven't hemmed the sleeves or the bottom, so it's a little longer than it will be once I hem them!

The knit is a basic rayon spandex blend from Joann's. It's very drapey and buttery soft. I've always been a cotton lycra fan, but man, rayon has been winning me over lately. It cascades in a way that the cotton doesn't. I'm thankful that I couldn't find a print that I liked. I need to sew in more solids, this top feels so elegant in a cream. 



Thanks to my awesome fiance for the pictures (and necklace). I feel very delicate. :)

The Women's Desert Breeze is releasing today 03/28/2016! You can find it at StripedSwallowDesigns.com Women's Desert Breeze and Bundle and you can get it on sale with code "BREEZE" for 25% off (it's on the entire store, too!) I promise that it will be a Summer staple :D 

Details
Pattern Women's Desert Breeze $12
Fabric rayon spandex from Joann's $16 for 2 yards (with leftovers)
Notions thread $0.50

Total estimated cost $28.50

However I did receive the pattern free of charge in exchange for testing my size and I didn't use 2 yards of fabric. I probably have 3/4 yard left over.
Kyema Friday, March 25, 2016 10 comments
Wow. What a long journey of many, many, many raglans it has been! First I want to take a second to say thank you to a couple of people, Tibeca of Sewing by Ti was awesome and did lots of work to make sure that we had the designers providing us the patterns so we wouldn't go broke doing this project. Also, she never once made me feel bad when my raglan Thursday's turned into Raglan Fridays. Thanks Ti. You're the best.

Secondly, I want to thank all the lovely ladies who offered their patterns up to be review, compared, and talked about! You all are awesome and I know that you've probably helped more than a few people find their perfect raglan!

Last, but certainly not least, I want to thank our Awesome fabric sponsors, Raspberry Creek Fabrics, BWD Fabrics, and Cali Fabrics! We've got $50 in gift certificates and 4 yards of fantastic cotton Lycra to give away, as well as a lot of raglan patterns to give away, too!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm going to take a minute to do a few "awards" of sorts. 

Best Size Range
This undoubtedly has to go to Jalie. They offer 12 months to women's 22! Plus you get a tank and a raglan pattern. :D


Best Value is a tie!

GreenStyle Creations Centerfield Raglan + Add on Pack $14
Sleeves 4
Hems 2
Elbow Patches 2
Hood 1
Necklines 3
Ruching on sides or standard 2
196 options for $14 = $0.07 per option


Patterns for Pirates Slim Fit or Regular Raglan + Add on Pack $17
Sleeves 3
Hems 3
Elbow patches 2
Hoods 2
Necklines 6
Pockets / Pouch / None 3
256 options for $17 = $0.07 per option



Most Likely to Sew Again
Here is where I show you how terrible I am at making decisions, but I have reasons for all three.
1. Greenstyle Centerfield Raglan - I want to make one in nylon lycra with a hood for workout!
2. Patterns for Pirates Slim Fit Raglan because it's slender enough to be completely my style
3. Hey June Lane Raglan. I'm enthusiastic to try her updated version of the lane that she just offered for free to everyone that has purchased.  

Best for Taller Girls
By taller I mean 5'6" ... I had to make no length adjustments to the Rainier raglan! as well as no length adjustments to the P4P Slim fit with the curved hem.


What a fun experience this has been! Now I'd love to see your renditions, too! Tibeca has a link party up on her blog so please feel free to add any raglan you've sewn to the link party. 

Below you can find all the details for the fabric and pattern giveaway! This runs from 03/25 - 03/28 so get your entries in soon!

I hope you enjoyed this series! Tell me what type of series you'd be interested in seeing next in the comments.

May the odds be ever in your favor!
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Kyema Friday, March 18, 2016 1 comment
Hi friends - something a little different today. I don't know if you know, but I have approximately 1,000,000 nieces and nephews and sometimes, just sometimes, when I'm not feeling lazy, I sew for them. :) 

I thought I'd start sharing some of those. You may be interested, you may not. (sorry) but I always love seeing new renditions of my favorite patterns.

I sewed two patterns from two designers for my littlest niece A. She's 5 months now and just cute as can be. If I get some pics of her in it, i'll update. ^^



The hat is the Trendy Beanie from Puperita Patterns. Annalisa is the designer behind Puperita and it's one of my favorite brands. All of her patterns show attention to detail and they turn out like the pictures. She teaches great techniques and many of her garments are fully lined. I can't tell you enough how great her patterns come together. Plus, she's super active in the Puperita Facebook group - so if you need any help, she or one of the admins will walk you though anything you need assistance with.

This hat is no exception. It's a super quick sew and comes out very cute! Reminds me of the nursery rhyme Winken, Blinken, and Nod.


The pants are the classic Maxaloones from Max and Meena.  I have only sewed one of their patterns (this one and several times.) but the instructions and photographs are very easy to follow! M&M are popular for this pattern! Practically everyone has made it or has seen it at a craft fair. 

If you're not familiar, they're "grow with me pants." The pattern includes sizes NB-5y.  Each size fits a range of ages. The one I sewed will fit from 6 months to 3 years. The legs and waistband extend to allow for growth. The bum area fits cloth or disposable diapers so even as the kid ages, there is room for a growing butt / legs / chunky baby thighs. (I'm baby shaming now.) Plus, the contrast butt is just too cute. 


Details

Patterns 
Puperita Trendy Beanie - $3
Max and Meena Maxaloones - $9.95
Fabric
Birch organics interlock knit - 2 yards+shipping - $25
Hat tie - cotton/lycra scraps - free
Notions 
Thread $.50


Kyema Thursday, March 17, 2016 No Comment
Here it is girls! My final raglan review... maybe forever. I have enough raglans now, haha. :) That means next week is our comparison post and fabric raffle. Make sure you check out Ti's final blog post, too. 


For my final piece, I sewed up the CKC Heather's Raglan. This shirt pattern has the option to to add ruffles to the shoulder and hemline, or to leave it plain like I've done. It sewed up similar to most raglans. Pretty direct and painless. :)


The one thing that stood out to me was the sleeve installation. Many traditional sleeves are set in when constructing a shirt, but every raglan shirt I've sewn, I've attached the sleeve before sewing the sides. This pattern had me attach sleeves in the round which I found a little awkward while the raglan had no sleeves / neckband. I could easily have attached the sleeve to the front and rear before sewing the sides, but in the interest of actually testing the pattern, I sewed then in the round. Also, as a beginner, you may not know that attaching flat is an option!

The may have you attach in the round to help keep the shoulder ruffles evenly disbursed if you choose that option, but I chose the regular version. 


Something cool about CKC is this pattern offered layerd printing, which is new to my knowledge for this brand. The other patterns I own by CKC don't have that option. Layers are always appreciated! Also, the front and back are the same piece with different necklines, so you cut the back fabric, then remove the extra neckline, then cut your front fabric. It makes the paper piecing a breeze because there are only a handful of pieces to glue together.

I liked the length without any modifications, though I feel the sleeves were a little loose when compared to the body of the raglan. In addition, the armpit area rode up a little, which I've noticed is common with Raglan shirts. However, this is the only raglan I tested that the sleeve is cut on the fold.

I chose to sew the plain version instead of the ruffles. However, if you choose to do the ruffles, they do provide a measurement chart for those and the neckband so you're not printing a bunch of rectangles.


Who should sew the CKC Heather Raglan? 
Anyone who wants to use the ruffles that the pattern offers and anyone who if familiar with CKC patterns! Or anyone who wants to match their daughter as they have a kid's Heather, too!

My final Raglan is cute a comfy! You can purchase the Heather Raglan here! Make sure you check back next week to see the round up and enter the fabric giveaway.

Sizes
XS-XL
Printable pattern pages/copy shop version
No
Skill Level
Intermediate
Measurements for Rectangles
Yes
Line Drawings
No
Size made
Small 34-27-37
Options choosen
Regular, no ruffles
Fabric Requirement for your size
3/4 yard bodice
1/2 sleeves
Measurement Chart
Yes
Cutting Instructions
Yes
Pattern Printing Layout
No
Cutting Layout
No
Suggested Fabrics
Knits
Layer Printing Option
No
Neck Line Options
Ruffles or plain
Sleeve Options
Long, 3/4, short sleeve
Hem Options
Straight
Color Blocking
No
Seam Allowance
1/2"
Hem Allowance
1/2"
Separate add-on pack
None
Fit
Slim
Easy to read instructions
Yes
Drawing or photograph instructions
No




Kyema Monday, March 07, 2016 No Comment
It's Monday! I've got some good news for you ladies on the 9-5. Itch to Stitch came out with a new collection today and all the pieces are perfect for work! You can see the entire collection here. I tested the Zamora Blouse and I'll share some thoughts with you below and a million pictures. 


The Zamora Blouse is a deep cut Pussy Bow blouse with pin tucks and darts galore. It features gently gathered sleeves and cuffs, waist and bust darts, curved hem, and staggered pin tucks down the front. The buttons on the front are fully functioning because this is a fitted blouse. You may be able to slip it over your head, but most likely not. The design is fantastic and totally my aesthetic. It's slim fitted and low cut but still work appropriate. That's a win on all accounts for me. :) 


Here's a close up of the pin tucks on the front. There are 4 on each side. Pin tucks are a labor of love. But when treated with patience, damn. They look so nice! The instructions on this part are fantastic if you've never sewn them before. Kennis explains it very well! The top piece is staggered for each tuck and each fold lines up perfect after all the tucks are sewn in place.


I did struggle with the waist darts. I've sewn darts before but every dart I've sewn has been on the edge of the fabric in some capacity. The waist darts on the front and back are in the middle of the fabric which was a little more fiddly, but it really helped to create a fitted blouse and was totally worth the struggle. (Plus, great practice! I love getting new skills under my belt.)


I blended sizes to create my blouse. The pattern comes with sizes 00-20. Based on my measurements, I sewed a size 0 for the waist 27" - size 2 for the bust 34" - and size 4 for the hips 37", and a B cup. Blending these sizes was easy because the Zamora features layers, so I just printed the three sizes I needed and gradually blended them together as I cut the paper out. The fit feels fantastic. There are some visible drag lines under my bust. Unfortunately I'm not experienced enough to know what caused this or how I can fix it. So I'll be doing some research!


The back has a small pleat and two darts at the waist. I meant to photograph the inside of my blouse, too. Unfortunately I forgot but I did do french seams, so the inside is pretty neat, too.


Note to self: Read. This pattern comes with cup sizes, so if you are a C cup and a size 6, you'll sew a different size than if you're a B cup and a size 6. It's pretty fantastic and helps to customize your fit without a ton of modifications you have to do yourself. All this being said - there a lot of pages to print that you don't need (you only need your size / cup size) Kennis provides a print chart on page 5 to tell you what pages you need to print according to your cup size, then you can choose to use the layers function and only print your specific size.
Can you guess already? Yep. I printed every page and pieced them all together before I realized that I was taping together a D cup. So not my chest size. :) So, check out page 5 before you print! You're welcome. :)


This is my "I'll totally answer the phone and do professional office work, but I'll also probably wink at you." Outfit. It got second glances from the fiance... which is saying something if he's immersed in League of Legends. 


Here's my lay flat picture. So adorable! Can I confess that I actually hate this fabric. I love the buttons, but the fabric is bleh. Blue is just not my color, yet somehow I own a TON of blue. Fabric aside, I love my blouse. I will be making more for work! I actually wore it for work today and got a ton of compliments. 


This is a little less test related but more ... "I got my new sewing machine!!!" related. JUST LOOK AT THESE BUTTON HOLES! HOLY CRAP! It was such a breeze to sew these button holes. No muss, no fuss. I even did extra buttons because I picked up a smaller size. (Hey, they matched so well!) That's pretty unheard of though, amirite? Extra button holes by choice? Yes, I have lost my mind. Directly into my Janome Skyline S7.

 YAAASSSS!

I loved sewing the Zamora blouse. It was a total labor of love. I believe I spend about 6 hours on this blouse alone. I opted to do french seams as my fabric was so prone to fray. All the darts and pin tucks took time, however - wasn't it totally worth it? I am super proud of this blouse and I can't wait to have a collection of them. I believe Kennis puts a ton of work into her patterns to make them impeccable.
There is everything you'd expect in a professional pattern, grain lines, notches, (I believe it's called trueing? When all the folds for the pin tucks make a straight line when they're sewn?), cup sizes, encased neckline and cuffs, drawn instructions, clear directions, layer printing, printing layout, tips for new techniques, and a classic design.

If you are interested in the Zamora Blouse, you can get it here.
The new releases and entire shop is on sale through March 13th, 2016 with code 4releases. 

Details
Fabric: Clearance at Hobby Lobby Fall 2014. 2 yards $12
Notions
Buttons: $.99
Thread: $.50

Estimated total cost $25.49

I received the Zamora Blouse pattern for free in exchange for testing it. 

Kyema Saturday, March 05, 2016 1 comment
We're in the home stretch folks! I have one more review after this one and in just a quick minute we're going to be giving away fabric! I hope you've enjoyed reading though Tibeca's posts and mine as well. 

Today I'm reviewing the Patterns for Pirates Slim Fit Raglan. I really loved the look of the original Raglan pattern from P4P, however, if you've ever read my blog, you'll know I like fitted clothing, so this is much more my style. :)
Tibeca sewed up the original if you'd like to read her review here.


I picked up this awesome fabric from Joanns. It's the newer Nicole Miller line they're carrying for Spring. It's super drapey and soft. Plus, it's so vibrant, I felt hella 80's.


I've sewn up so many long sleeves, I thought I'd make a few for Spring that's quickly approaching in Washington. This will be worn a lot on my days off. It's super comfortable and just slim enough to make me feel sexy / casual.


I love -LOVE- how quickly this came together. All of Judy's patterns are "no trim pages" so they're super quick to piece together. And this pattern has LAYERS. So I just chose my size and printed that size only! It works out great and uses less ink. You can easily even print in black and white if you are only doing one size. (She also dashes her patterns, so you can do B&W even if you're blending multiple sizes.)

After this was cut, it took about 25 minutes to sew and maybe 10 to hem. You can't beat that. You just can't. Although, now that I've sewn approximately 2,000,000 raglans I'm sure I'm faster! I only read the instructions so I can pass along if they're good or not! ;)


Judy drafts for 5'5" I am 5'6" but I normally have to add length to P4P patterns (2" - 3"). However, I chose the curved hem and it looked long enough to me, so I decided not to add any length and it turned out really nice! Just enough booty coverage that you could even get away with wearing some Peg Legs as pants while still covering your... behind!
(P.S. If you don't own the Peg Legs yet, you can get a discount code to make them FREE through Judy's pattern group on Facebook, Patterns for Pirates.)


I love how the front curved hem is a little higher than the back! It's a nice touch that helps contribute to the butt coverage. :P I think next time I might add some length just to do some ruching! I think that would be adorable.

I read some complaints about the angle of the sleeves meeting the body on the Regular Raglan, however they seem more slanted on the Slim Fit, which I like. The neck band could be reduced about an inch which I will do next time I sew, however, it still lays pretty flat. :D

Also, I would have loved to see some "lengthen and shorten" lines on the body of the pattern. There is a link in the PDF to her blog with a tutorial, but the link is dead. : / Most sewers can figure out where to cut, but it would be great to have a line to keep the front and back even when lengthening or shortening.


Who should sew Patterns for Pirates Slim Fit Raglan?
Anyone who wants a super quick, no fuss sew! Judy's patterns are loved by so many, I'm sure most of you have tried one. She drafts for average height and a C cup. (I'm a B and they still fit great.) Anyone who want's more options for their raglan, too! The regular Raglan and the Slim Fit have Add On Pack that includes a hoodie, funnel neck, thumb holes, kangaroo pockets, etc. The add on pack works with both the Slim Fit and Regular so it's a 2 for 1! Also, this pattern includes Tunic, Banded, Curved hem, Elbow Patches, and the fun center triangle seen on RTW Raglans.

P.S. Patterns for Pirates is having a 30% off sale and today is the last day! Make sure to go check out The Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group for the discount code and shop for P4P Patterns here.

Sizes
XS - 3XL
Printable pattern pages/copy shop version
Printable pattern pages
Skill Level
Beginner
Measurements for Rectangles
Neckband
Line Drawings
Yes
Size made
Small 27"-34"-37"
Options choosen
Curved hem, Short Sleeve
Fabric Requirement for your size
7/8 body
3/8 for sleeves
Measurement Chart
Yes
Cutting Instructions
No
Pattern Printing Layout
No
Cutting Layout
No
Suggested Fabrics
Knits with 30% stretch for body
70% for Neck and other bands
Layer Printing Option
Yes
Neck Line Options
Crew neck (Optional Triangle Insert)
Sleeve Options
Short, 3/4. and Long
Hem Options
Curved, Tunic, Banded, Hemmed
Color Blocking
No
Seam Allowance
1/2"
Hem Allowance
1"
Separate add-on pack
Yes (Here)
Fit
Fitted
Easy to read instructions
Yes
Drawing or photograph instructions
Pictures



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