Life moves quickly and things are always changing. One thing I can always count on though is the consistency of my bitching. 95% of my blog posts start by me complaining that I need more work clothes. It's true. I do need work clothes, but sewing dresses is just so much more fun! However, time waits for no (wo)man and this baby bump sure isn't waiting, either. Little lemon keeps growing like crazy! 23 Weeks the date we took these pics! (9/5) We actually SAW her kick last night for the first time! How exciting. :)

All this leads me to this exciting news. I finished 6 new pieces for my maternity capsule! I still have 2 more tops planned, but SIX whole pieces of work appropriate, maternity appropriate, nursing appropriate clothing! You don't even have to congratulate me, I am already high-fiving myself.

This mini capsule includes:

2 Cardigans

3 Tops

3 Skirts

with at least 2 more tops planned.

I did use a lot of pink, but the fabrics I have planned for the extra tops are navy and wine colored which I think will look great with the floral skirt!

Let's jump right in! I didn't photograph every piece with every other piece but they all go together pretty seamlessly.

(Also, can we all forget about the sun drags on these pics and just be happy that our husband took these photos for us when we all know he'd rather be in the garage playing pool? Stop being an ungrateful turd.) (That was strictly a note to myself. LOL)

First up and my favorite combo of all!

Top: New Horizons Designs Cascade Tee. Sleeveless. Size 4. 

Fabric: Peach Modal from Surge Fabric.

Skirt: Megan Nielsen Erin Maternity Skirt. Version 3. Size S at waist blended to XS for hips. 

Fabric: Black Ponte from Surge Fabric.

Heads up to the other pregnant ladies, MODAL IS THE SHIZ. Two reasons. Reason one: It keeps you cool like rayon spandex but without stretching, wrinkling, shrinking, and pilling that can can come with rayon spandex. Two: It is soft and dreamy not isn't see-through! The main reason I love it is it doesn't pill on me like rayon does. Give it a shot. Surge Fabric carries a wide verity of colors in Modal.  Hot Tip: Don't iron modal fabric with a hot, hot iron, it will leave imprints and give the garment a subtle pressed look all the time. Please don't be me (lazy) and forget a pressing cloth. It is your friend.

Next up is this cute cardigan add in. The skirt is the same skirt as above!

Top: Halla Madeleine Cowl Neck Top. I blogged about this top here.

Fabric: Melody Floral on Coral Ity from Surge Fabric.

Cardigan: Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan. Size S at bust and waist blended to M at hips. I also shortened the arms by three whole inches. I never knew how short my arms were. (Shrug)

Fabric: Onyx Brushed Sweater Knit from Surge Fabric.

I really love this cardigan. The pockets are perfect for my phone and there are no buttons which makes it quick and super maternity friendly because it doesn't look like it *Should* be buttoned. It's just loose and lets your belly grow. :) The Onyx brushed sweater knit from Surge is unlike any fabric I've tried before. It really is *brushed* on one side and doesn't feel sweatery on the inside. Somehow it's still cozy af though. It will be really nice when I'm wearing a long sleeve because the smooth interior won't move the undershirt and stick to it.

Last outfit with this awesome skirt!

Top: Itch to Stitch Brasov Wrap Top. Blogged here.

Side note: Surge Ponte is the BEST way to feel professional but also feel comfortable. This is the closest I can get to "jammies at work." and I'm loving it.



This has to be my second favorite outfit. I've gotten so many compliments on this wearing it out! It just look really fun and flirty to me but still passing as professional. Gah. My maternity clothes are cuter than my normal wardrobe. (It's good though, I need an extra confidence boost as I grow in strange places and feel uncomfortable almost 98.99% of the time.)

Skirt: Megan Nielsen Erin Maternity Skirt. Version 1. Size S at waist blended to XS for hips.
Fabric: Coral and Navy Floral Scuba from Surge Fabric.

 Yes, I am aware the pic on the left is a little weird. Let's not talk about it. I included it because I love the contrasting stripes on the cardigan and that was the best view I had of it! This again is the Blackwood Cardigan by Helen's Closet. This was my first rendition and as you can see the sleeves are far too long. I shorted the black version by 3" in the arms. That is why I love sewing! This fabric was purchased black Friday of last year from a different shop. I'll blog about it eventually. Any sweater knit is great for this pattern. :) Also, no real need to blend sizes in this pattern like I did, straight small would have been fine because there are no closures.

 Side note for Scuba: The MN Erin skirt pattern says scuba is a fine choice but recommends 4 way stretch. This fabric only has two way but it is just too pretty to pass on so I made it work! It is actually still pretty comfy, if you decide to use a fabric with 2 way, I would recommend adding a back vent, though. The ponte is definitely easier to move it. I have worn it to work and will continue to do so though!

My final piece!

Skirt: Sinclair Amaya. Size 4.

Fabric: Charcoal Ponte from Surge Fabric.

I made a size 4 for this pattern and I had to take a TON in on the sides. I guess better too much than not enough, but it was a lot. I will size down for the next one. The Amaya Skirt works surprisingly well for maternity for not being a maternity piece! I don't think I'll be able to wear it into my 3rd trimester, but I didn't plan it as a maternity specific piece to begin with, so I'm perfectly fine with that. :)

Phew! I don't know if I spent more time typing or sewing. I hope this gives some of you mom's-to-be some inspiration for your maternity wardrobe. This, for me, is just a starting point that I'm going to continue to add to. I have been working really hard on sewing things that I can wear during and after pregnancy and so far all these pieces except the two Megan Nielsen skirts are not intended for maternity but are working great! Most of the tops that I have sewn and have planned are good for nursing as well. I love, love how they all work together. It takes a lot of the "planning" out of what to wear in the morning. Capsules FTW.

Thanks for reading to the end! I hope you'll check out these awesome designers as well as Surge Fabric Shop and join their Facebook group for all the updates on sales and new stockings!

No affiliate links are used in this blog post. I do, however, receive a discount for helping to promote Surge Fabric Shop.

*This pattern was given to me for free in exchange for testing before it's release. This post also contains affiliate links to help me buy more ramen noodles.*

I sure am fond of knotted tops. They add a fun and interesting detail to an otherwise "normal" tee. It's a top I can feel good about sewing in a solid because, it's already fun enough. :) 

The newest knot style top on the market comes from Itch to Stitch. The owner and designer, Kennis, has impeccable drafting skills and this pattern is no exception.

"The Nottingham Top"

This pattern design features a front knot, long sleeves, elbow length sleeves, or a fun and cute flutter sleeve, all with a modest neckline, and a banded neck. Over all, it's pretty beginner friendly and the clear digital drawing instructions make the knot pretty simple!

I chose a basic heather grey DBP from my stash that I purchased ages ago from Sincerely Rylee.  So so cozy.

One interesting detail about the Nottingham Top is that the sleeves are inset and designed to where the sleeve seam doesn't align with the side seam of the top. Kennis based this off of athletic wear patterns to have the sleeve fit better and cause less stress on the seams. I will say the sleeves are supremely comfortable. She also includes lots of notches which makes sewing a set in sleeve a total breeze. I honestly didn't even have to baste it!

Despite that this top isn't designed for maternity, I believe it will work really well for moms-to-be well into their second trimester. If you wanted to lower the neckline, it would also work for nursing after the baby is born. Just an idea. :)

This pattern comes in sizes 00-20, has layered pieces, clear instructions, digital drawings to aid with the written instructions, 3 sleeve lengths, and sews up quickly! Also, despite the pattern calling for 1 yard and 1/8th, I was able to fit my size 2 top into a single yard. 

This top is on sale for $8 right now and you can find it at ItchtoStitch.com! Don't miss out, this will be a summer staple!

So, first up on my handmade wardrobe is more work clothes. It's finally time to admit it... I work five days a week (sometimes six) and ten hours a day. I'm at work no less than fifty hours per week and I have about two days of play which account for approximately thirty-two hours of "free time." I don't need more dresses, I need more work clothes. Warm work clothes.

Let me introduce you to my new favorite blouse, the Brasov Wrap Top from Itch to Stitch Designs.

I have loved Kennis' Designs for awhile now. They have the professional drafting of "the big 4" (notching, markings, grainlines, finishing techniques, etc) but with better sizing and directions but the benefit of her group which allows you to ask questions!

At first, I wasn't convinced on this design. I am a small busted girl and high necklines can look unflattering on me so I wanted something lower cut. But after sewing this up, I can't wait to make more. I'll be real with you, including cutting, this top took me about 4 hours which I feel is super excessive. It has a lot of details, but next one should be about half that time. Maybe I was just slow moving.

My standard size in ITS is 0/2/4 bust/waist/hip but since this was knit I chose to do 0/0/4 since I like a more fitted blouse. The only changes I made were on the shoulder pleats. I sewed them 2.5" down (the same as the waist pleats) because I misread the pattern. Turns out, if you're small busted, Kennis suggests you lengthen the shoulder pleats anyway! Accidental win!

I bought the fabric from Cali Fabrics when they had their black Friday sale. It's DBP. I believe they still have white in stock but the black is almost gone. It's soft, cozy, and stretchy. Just what you'd expect from DBP.

I already have two more planned. For the next one, I'll size down once again. 00/0/2. The one thing I noticed is because I sized up on the hips two sizes the ends poke out to form kind of a bell shape. So I'll avoid that this time by keeping the waist and hip portion a more similar size. Plus it's knit, so it will stretch! My measurements are 32/27/37 and finished garment for 00/0/2 are 34/28/36

This has been an awesome addition to my work wardrobe and it's warm! Glad to have my closet growing with professional clothing. Thank you, Kennis!

Details

Pattern: Brasov Wrap Top

Fabric: DBP from Cali Fabrics

Size: 0/0/2

Brasov Wrap Top PDF Sewing Pattern

This post contains affiliate links to help fund my handmade wardrobe project! Thank you for your support.

*This post contains affiliate links to help me pay for fabric rehab*

Hey! Remember when I said I was going to take a break from testing? Yeah, me neither.

So I tested the new Itch to Stitch Lisbon Cardigan that released today. This is absolutely perfect for me as I'm a cold human that works in a large warehouse where I still have to dress professionally. So when I saw the style of this cardigan, I had to test it! What a great excuse to make more work clothes. :D

*If you haven't sewn an Itch to stitch pattern, you are in for a treat. The designer, Kennis, is a detail hound and you won't get through one of her patterns without learning something unless you've been a professional tailor for decades. Her patterns are very professional, yet completely approachable. If you want to test one out first, she always has the Lindy Petal Skirt for free here!* (Picture linked on sidebar)

The Lisbon Cardigan features

-Long sleeves

-3/4 length sleeves

-Full length

-Cropped length

-No hemming, everything is banded!

-Sleeves not cut on fold

-All pieces are notched

-Directions where to interface and which type to use

-Layered printing

-Sizes 00-20

-Tips on Hong Kong finish for seams

I sewed a size 2 for the chest, 0 for the waist, and 4 for the hips according to the size chart and the fit is spot on. The sleeves are the perfect length where they just slide over your hand a tiny bit. The over all fit is slightly relaxed but still fitted if that makes any sense at all.

My buttons are done pretty well, but the spacing is just slightly off on the actual buttons! It will get better with practice, but see that small pucker? Also, my bottom button is way too close to the edge. I only noticed after the button holes were done. Oh well, all part of the process. The next one will be even better. (You know it's a garment I like if I have a next one planned already)

I sewed this up in sweater knit that I bought from Sincerely Rylee last year in one of her mystery boxes that I don't think she does anymore. However, I got a great deal on lots of sweater knits and this was absolutely perfect, however I'm not sure of the exact fiber contents. If I wanted something a little lighter I would probably choose a rayon spandex blend or a cotton Lycra. Maybe this would be cute in a Ponte, too? So many things to try. I'd also like to do a V neck hack. (I'm always trying to push it... I don't do well in matronly clothing. :P) I do feel just a little classy in this outfit though. :D

Don't forget, the Lisbon Cardigan is on sale for 20% off right now! :)

Details

Pattern Itch to Stitch Lisbon Cardigan = $10 

Fabric - aprox. $4 / yard for 2 yards = $8

Notions

Interfacing = $2

Buttons $3

Thread = $.50

Estimated total cost = $25.50

I did receive the pattern for free in exchange for testing it before it was released.

It's Monday! I've got some good news for you ladies on the 9-5. Itch to Stitch came out with a new collection today and all the pieces are perfect for work! You can see the entire collection here. I tested the Zamora Blouse and I'll share some thoughts with you below and a million pictures. 

The Zamora Blouse is a deep cut Pussy Bow blouse with pin tucks and darts galore. It features gently gathered sleeves and cuffs, waist and bust darts, curved hem, and staggered pin tucks down the front. The buttons on the front are fully functioning because this is a fitted blouse. You may be able to slip it over your head, but most likely not. The design is fantastic and totally my aesthetic. It's slim fitted and low cut but still work appropriate. That's a win on all accounts for me. :) 

Here's a close up of the pin tucks on the front. There are 4 on each side. Pin tucks are a labor of love. But when treated with patience, damn. They look so nice! The instructions on this part are fantastic if you've never sewn them before. Kennis explains it very well! The top piece is staggered for each tuck and each fold lines up perfect after all the tucks are sewn in place.

I did struggle with the waist darts. I've sewn darts before but every dart I've sewn has been on the edge of the fabric in some capacity. The waist darts on the front and back are in the middle of the fabric which was a little more fiddly, but it really helped to create a fitted blouse and was totally worth the struggle. (Plus, great practice! I love getting new skills under my belt.)

I blended sizes to create my blouse. The pattern comes with sizes 00-20. Based on my measurements, I sewed a size 0 for the waist 27" - size 2 for the bust 34" - and size 4 for the hips 37", and a B cup. Blending these sizes was easy because the Zamora features layers, so I just printed the three sizes I needed and gradually blended them together as I cut the paper out. The fit feels fantastic. There are some visible drag lines under my bust. Unfortunately I'm not experienced enough to know what caused this or how I can fix it. So I'll be doing some research!

The back has a small pleat and two darts at the waist. I meant to photograph the inside of my blouse, too. Unfortunately I forgot but I did do french seams, so the inside is pretty neat, too.

Note to self: Read. This pattern comes with cup sizes, so if you are a C cup and a size 6, you'll sew a different size than if you're a B cup and a size 6. It's pretty fantastic and helps to customize your fit without a ton of modifications you have to do yourself. All this being said - there a lot of pages to print that you don't need (you only need your size / cup size) Kennis provides a print chart on page 5 to tell you what pages you need to print according to your cup size, then you can choose to use the layers function and only print your specific size.

Can you guess already? Yep. I printed every page and pieced them all together before I realized that I was taping together a D cup. So not my chest size. :) So, check out page 5 before you print! You're welcome. :)

This is my "I'll totally answer the phone and do professional office work, but I'll also probably wink at you." Outfit. It got second glances from the fiance... which is saying something if he's immersed in League of Legends. 

Here's my lay flat picture. So adorable! Can I confess that I actually hate this fabric. I love the buttons, but the fabric is bleh. Blue is just not my color, yet somehow I own a TON of blue. Fabric aside, I love my blouse. I will be making more for work! I actually wore it for work today and got a ton of compliments. 

This is a little less test related but more ... "I got my new sewing machine!!!" related. JUST LOOK AT THESE BUTTON HOLES! HOLY CRAP! It was such a breeze to sew these button holes. No muss, no fuss. I even did extra buttons because I picked up a smaller size. (Hey, they matched so well!) That's pretty unheard of though, amirite? Extra button holes by choice? Yes, I have lost my mind. Directly into my Janome Skyline S7.

 YAAASSSS!

I loved sewing the Zamora blouse. It was a total labor of love. I believe I spend about 6 hours on this blouse alone. I opted to do french seams as my fabric was so prone to fray. All the darts and pin tucks took time, however - wasn't it totally worth it? I am super proud of this blouse and I can't wait to have a collection of them. I believe Kennis puts a ton of work into her patterns to make them impeccable.

There is everything you'd expect in a professional pattern, grain lines, notches, (I believe it's called trueing? When all the folds for the pin tucks make a straight line when they're sewn?), cup sizes, encased neckline and cuffs, drawn instructions, clear directions, layer printing, printing layout, tips for new techniques, and a classic design.

If you are interested in the Zamora Blouse, you can get it here.

Here is the rest of the new collection that is totally work appropriate!

The new releases and entire shop is on sale through March 13th, 2016 with code 4releases. 

Details

Pattern: Itch to Stitch Zamora Blouse $12

Fabric: Clearance at Hobby Lobby Fall 2014. 2 yards $12

Notions

Buttons: $.99

Thread: $.50

Estimated total cost $25.49

I received the Zamora Blouse pattern for free in exchange for testing it.